Hair oil is one of the most overpromised products in beauty. The bottle says "miracle elixir" and the price says £40. What it actually does depends on three things: which oil is in the bottle, how it's processed, and how you apply it.
This guide compares the three most useful oils for damaged hair — avocado, argan and hemp — and explains when to reach for each.
Why damaged hair needs oil (and what oil actually does)
Hair shafts have a porous outer cuticle. When that cuticle is damaged — bleaching, heat, hard water, friction — the inner cortex loses water and proteins faster. A good hair oil does three things at once:
- Seals the cuticle so moisture stays in
- Adds slip so combing and styling cause less mechanical damage
- Penetrates the cortex (some oils do, others don't) to add nourishment from inside
The third point separates good oils from cheap ones. Mineral oil sits on top; argan, avocado and hemp penetrate.
Avocado oil — the heavyweight for very dry or bleached hair
Avocado oil is rich in oleic acid (fatty acid that penetrates the hair shaft) and vitamin E. It's heavier than argan, which means:
- Pro: serious moisturisation for very dry, bleached or curly hair
- Con: too heavy for fine straight hair — weighs it down
Best applied: as a leave-in on damp hair, ends only, or as part of a pre-wash treatment.
Argan oil — the lightweight all-rounder
Argan oil is high in linoleic acid and vitamin E. It's lighter than avocado, which means:
- Pro: works on most hair types including fine straight hair
- Con: less moisturising than avocado for very dry hair
Best applied: a few drops in palm, smoothed over dry hair from mid-length to ends as a finishing step.
Hemp oil — the strengthener with linoleic acid
Hemp seed oil is high in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 that helps strengthen the hair shaft. It's medium-weight — between argan and avocado:
- Pro: excellent for damaged or chemically processed hair that's lost protein
- Con: can have a faint herbal scent that some people don't love
Best applied: as part of a daily styling product (sprays, leave-ins) rather than as a standalone oil.
Side-by-side comparison
Weight (light → heavy): Argan → Hemp → Avocado
Best for fine hair: Argan
Best for thick or curly hair: Avocado
Best for damaged/bleached hair: Avocado + Hemp combo
Best for everyday shine: Argan
Where Moné fits in
The Moné Color Lemonade Hair Oil combines avocado AND hemp oils in a 50ml bottle, specifically formulated for bleached, blonde and damaged hair. Hemp brings the strengthening; avocado brings the deep moisture. Light enough to layer on dry hair without weighing it down.
For styling support that includes oil benefits + heat protection, the Moneplex 04 Keratin Leave-In Spray works as a daily option — it has the oils without being a standalone oil.
How to apply hair oil correctly
Three rules:
- Less than you think. 1–3 drops for fine hair, 4–6 for thick. Excess oil = greasy.
- Ends first, then up. Start at the very ends, work up to mid-length. Never near the scalp unless you have very dry scalp.
- Damp hair for absorption, dry hair for shine. Damp = oil penetrates. Dry = oil sits on top for instant gloss.
When NOT to use oil
- If your hair gets oily at the roots within 24 hours — your scalp produces enough sebum already
- Before a deep conditioning mask — oil prevents the mask from penetrating
- In humid weather without a heat protectant first — oil + humidity = frizz amplification
Frequently asked questions
Can I use cooking oils on my hair?
Coconut and olive oils technically work, but they're often unrefined and can leave a coating. Cosmetic-grade oils are filtered and processed to penetrate hair better.
Will hair oil cause buildup?
Only if you use too much or skip regular washes. A clarifying shampoo every 6–8 washes removes any oil buildup.
Should I oil before or after heat styling?
Always heat protectant first, oil last. Oil applied before heat can fry into hair and cause damage.
How often should I use hair oil?
2–3 times per week for most hair types. Daily if very dry or curly. Less if fine and straight.
Is hair oil safe for coloured hair?
Yes — in fact it's especially recommended. Coloured hair has higher porosity and benefits from oil sealing.
Build your oil routine: Color Lemonade Hair Oil with avocado and hemp, or layer with Moneplex 04 Keratin Leave-In. Free UK delivery over £20.